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It rains all the time. A little short of two hours in, in our small boat on the open sea, we were drenched to the skin. The lodge itself is comfortable, with excellent food. The staff, park and project officers are Afro-Colombians with un-Colombian names such as Lincoln, Wellington and Robert. Theirs is the poorest community in the country, not recognised as an ethnic group until Their welcome is the best you could receive anywhere.
Needless to say, we were very keen to see whales, which can appear anywhere, even in the inlet in front of the lodge, but we saw none. Josefina, the leader of Mano Cambiada, who has been an activist on behalf of her people for 22 years, said she had not seen a whale, but one night she realised that in a previous life she had been a Japanese woman.
She asked for forgiveness for any wrongdoing she might have done in that life and immediately saw herself in the sea with the whales singing to her. Thereafter she sees whales all the time. No such dreams or prayers gave us foreigners a sight of the whales. You can find our Community Guidelines in full here. Want to discuss real-world problems, be involved in the most engaging discussions and hear from the journalists?
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